We were interested in learning more about Korean Buddhism, so we decided to stay at a temple for a few nights. We found an organization called Templestay that offers over a dozen options. We chose Haeinsa because it is a UNESCO world heritage site and is located in the mountains (so would have nice hiking). This is the Nirvana gate that leads to the main courtyard of Haeinsa. It is the third gate, so visitors are required to climb up to the temple.
Buddhism was brought to Korea in the 4th century by Chinese monks, and it flourished until the end of the 14th century. Prior to Buddhism, Animism was the main religion, which included 3 spirits that were worshipped. Korean Buddhism incorporated these spirits, and often a temple complex will include a small temple outside the Nirvana gate that is dedicated to the mountain spirit. Haeinsa had a mountain spirit temple. We are also including a picture of the mountain spirit, which is shown as a tiger (who is king of the mountain). Haeinsa was first built in 802.
Sound is an important part of Korean Buddhism. This drum, called the Dharma drum, is played to signal the morning and evening worship services. The drum beats are to awaken all land animals. The monks took turns playing the huge drum, so that it sounded continuously for ten minutes.
The wooden fish is played to awaken all water born creatures.
This bell, called the Brahma bell, is rung twice each day at the beginning of service; there are 27 peals in the morning and 33 peals in the evening. The sound of the bell clears out mental confusion. This bell is more than six feet tall.
Part of the Templestay program includes following the monastery schedule. This means we got up at 3 am so that we could attend service. The service, called Yebul, includes melodic chanting and lots of bowing. We also participated in the subsequent 108 bows and meditation period. The bows are full prostrations, and we were sweating with the exertion. Then we took a nap before breakfast at 6 am! This is a picture of the courtyard in the morning after breakfast. During the day, it was filled with visitors.
Haeinsa is an active monastery with many ordained monks who are in a four year rigorous study program. They also spend six months each year on meditation retreats, for three months each winter and summer. The monks in the photo are on their way to a chanting period. For several hours each day they chant the name of the Buddha or the Buddha's teachings called sutras; we were able to participate in one of these sessions, and the sound of the chanting was awesome!
The meals were healthy vegetarian fare. They make their own kimchee here each winter. We counted over 100 kimchee vessels. It was served with every meal, as it is good for digestion.
We were given monk pants to wear. We found them very comfortable, but they came in just one size: baggy! We were glad they were warm, as the temperatures were quite cool.
In addition to the main temple area, there were a number of hermitages and nunneries at Haeinsa. This hermitage had a small vegetable garden in front.
The Bohyeonam Nunnery had the most beautiful flowers and landscaping throughout.
This dragon ornamentation was above the altar in the Bohyeonam temple.
The hiking here on Mount Gaya was great, in part because the paths were so well maintained. This path went along the stream for several miles.
We saw a number of carved stones like this one. We assume they had Buddhist sutras carved on them.
And the views were incredible!
Because we had to travel quite a ways to get to Haeinsa, including walking a mile up to the temple from the bus stop, we opted to leave our big rolling bags at the train station and bring only our little backpacks. Kristina is pictured here with all our luggage.
We were asked a lot what we are bringing on our one year tour of Asia. The answer is minimal clothes plus gear and supplies for the various activities we are doing. Here's our cycling gear.
This is what we need for diving (we rent the rest of the gear we need).
Here are all the supplies to keep us healthy: travel yoga mats, massage roller, steri-pen that uses ultra violet light to kill microbes in drinking water, sunscreen, and all sorts of medicines like anti-malarial treatment.
And we are also carrying a small library of primarily fiction books about the countries we are visiting. We are reading three books about Korea: The Calligrapher's Daughter by Eugenia Kim that covers 1910-1946 when Korea was colonized by Japan and the Confuscian culture was crushed; The Guest by Hwang Sok-Yong that covers the history of the Korean War which tore the country in half; and Please Look After Mom by Kyung-Sook Shin which won the Man Booker prize and is set in contemporary Korea. We have purchased books on the road, mostly in bigger cities like Delhi, Bangkok and Seoul. When we finish reading a book, we try to leave it at a guesthouse that has a foreign-language library in the hopes it will be read again. And then we head to the nearest bookstore to restock!
Can you believe all this stuff fits into two rolling bags, two small backpacks and a purse?
Buddhism was brought to Korea in the 4th century by Chinese monks, and it flourished until the end of the 14th century. Prior to Buddhism, Animism was the main religion, which included 3 spirits that were worshipped. Korean Buddhism incorporated these spirits, and often a temple complex will include a small temple outside the Nirvana gate that is dedicated to the mountain spirit. Haeinsa had a mountain spirit temple. We are also including a picture of the mountain spirit, which is shown as a tiger (who is king of the mountain). Haeinsa was first built in 802.
Sound is an important part of Korean Buddhism. This drum, called the Dharma drum, is played to signal the morning and evening worship services. The drum beats are to awaken all land animals. The monks took turns playing the huge drum, so that it sounded continuously for ten minutes.
The wooden fish is played to awaken all water born creatures.
This bell, called the Brahma bell, is rung twice each day at the beginning of service; there are 27 peals in the morning and 33 peals in the evening. The sound of the bell clears out mental confusion. This bell is more than six feet tall.
Part of the Templestay program includes following the monastery schedule. This means we got up at 3 am so that we could attend service. The service, called Yebul, includes melodic chanting and lots of bowing. We also participated in the subsequent 108 bows and meditation period. The bows are full prostrations, and we were sweating with the exertion. Then we took a nap before breakfast at 6 am! This is a picture of the courtyard in the morning after breakfast. During the day, it was filled with visitors.
Haeinsa is an active monastery with many ordained monks who are in a four year rigorous study program. They also spend six months each year on meditation retreats, for three months each winter and summer. The monks in the photo are on their way to a chanting period. For several hours each day they chant the name of the Buddha or the Buddha's teachings called sutras; we were able to participate in one of these sessions, and the sound of the chanting was awesome!
The meals were healthy vegetarian fare. They make their own kimchee here each winter. We counted over 100 kimchee vessels. It was served with every meal, as it is good for digestion.
We were given monk pants to wear. We found them very comfortable, but they came in just one size: baggy! We were glad they were warm, as the temperatures were quite cool.
In addition to the main temple area, there were a number of hermitages and nunneries at Haeinsa. This hermitage had a small vegetable garden in front.
The Bohyeonam Nunnery had the most beautiful flowers and landscaping throughout.
This dragon ornamentation was above the altar in the Bohyeonam temple.
The hiking here on Mount Gaya was great, in part because the paths were so well maintained. This path went along the stream for several miles.
We saw a number of carved stones like this one. We assume they had Buddhist sutras carved on them.
And the views were incredible!
Because we had to travel quite a ways to get to Haeinsa, including walking a mile up to the temple from the bus stop, we opted to leave our big rolling bags at the train station and bring only our little backpacks. Kristina is pictured here with all our luggage.
We were asked a lot what we are bringing on our one year tour of Asia. The answer is minimal clothes plus gear and supplies for the various activities we are doing. Here's our cycling gear.
This is what we need for diving (we rent the rest of the gear we need).
Here are all the supplies to keep us healthy: travel yoga mats, massage roller, steri-pen that uses ultra violet light to kill microbes in drinking water, sunscreen, and all sorts of medicines like anti-malarial treatment.
And we are also carrying a small library of primarily fiction books about the countries we are visiting. We are reading three books about Korea: The Calligrapher's Daughter by Eugenia Kim that covers 1910-1946 when Korea was colonized by Japan and the Confuscian culture was crushed; The Guest by Hwang Sok-Yong that covers the history of the Korean War which tore the country in half; and Please Look After Mom by Kyung-Sook Shin which won the Man Booker prize and is set in contemporary Korea. We have purchased books on the road, mostly in bigger cities like Delhi, Bangkok and Seoul. When we finish reading a book, we try to leave it at a guesthouse that has a foreign-language library in the hopes it will be read again. And then we head to the nearest bookstore to restock!
Can you believe all this stuff fits into two rolling bags, two small backpacks and a purse?
