Friday, February 1, 2013

Kushinagar: The Buddha’s Parinirvana


Traveling in India has its challenges. We took a train from Varanasi, which arrived 3 hours late. It was only supposed to take 4 hours! While we waited, we had time to talk with other passengers. We really enjoyed talking with a Hindu woman psychologist (who was returning from a conference in Bangkok to her home near Kushinagar) and an Argentinian woman psychologist who was traveling like us. We got onto the topic of how patriarchal Indian culture is. The woman from Kushinagar explained that it is a vestige from hundreds of years ago when the Islamic invaders were ravishing northern India, which resulted in women and children being forced to stay at home for their safety. She also indicated that the south of India is more egalitarian and that northern India is changing. Our experience has been that it's a man's world here, with Kristina being largely invisible when it comes to transacting for a hotel or transportation. Since the train (finally) arrived at night and there was fog, we opted to spend the night in Gorakpur. After rejecting several squalorous rooms near the train station, we jumped in a tuktuk and went to the center of the city. We ended up in the Presidential suite, which was the only room they had!

 

It was much larger than we needed, so we used the extra space for yoga poses we haven't had room to do thus far. Here's Pete in Eka Pada Koundinyasana 2.


We've been able to practice yoga most mornings since we arrived in India (which is more frequent than the twice a week schedule we had time for at home) and it feels great. After breakfast we left our "suite" and took a taxi 50 km to Kushinagar. Kushinagar is a key part of our Buddhist pilgrimage, as this is where the Buddha, after teaching the Dharma for 45 years, reached parinirvana (where he died). This is a picture us at the Parinirvana stupa.


Initially after the Buddha’s death, the only images that were used to honor him were empty sandals, footprints, an empty chair, or an umbrella. We aren't exactly sure, but we recall hearing that this is what the Buddha requested as he didn’t want to be deified, although that is exactly what has happened! The footprints symbolize that the Buddha had been here and that he is gone. These prints were at the beautiful Thai temple here in Kushinagar. 


Kushinagar is even quieter than Sarnath, and we’re enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. Bikes are a key mode of transportation everywhere we’ve visited in India, and are used by people of all ages. Kushinagar is very bicycle-centric. This photo was taken around lunch time, when people flock to the center of town for lunch.


Bikes are used for transporting all kinds of things besides people. Here the bike is pulling a cart holding trash containers.

 
This photo was taken in Varanasi – the bike was so loaded down with fabric that the rider had to push it through the streets.


We’ve had many offers for rides in the bicycle rickshaws, but we prefer to walk.


These girls waved as they went by. The people in Kushinagar are especially friendly and curious about us.

 
There is plenty of motorized bicycles as well. We've seen up to four people on a motorbike!


The Thai temple in Kushinagar is very beautiful. This building is housing part of the Buddha’s remains, and this is a close as we were allowed to get.


In Burma, what day you are born is thought to have a big impact on what kind of a person you will be. We were both born on Tuesday, which is associated with high morals. If you look closely at the top of the photo, you can see “Tues day”.


Tomorrow we will go in a hired car to Lumbine, Nepal, where the Buddha was born. This will be the fourth and final pilgrimage destination.